Hispanic Heritage
Carlos Gaytan

Share about your personal background leading to where you are now.

CG: I was born in Huitzuco, Guerrero, Mexico in 1970. From a young age, I fell in love with cooking, exploring a full spectrum of flavor while perfecting recipes alongside my mother, Doña Teté. At 20 years of age, I craved a new adventure and set my sights on Chicago, Illinois. Little did I know that the journey would solidify my dedication to a career in gastronomy.

My culinary path began at the Sheraton North Shore Hotel, where I worked as a dishwasher and cook. I worked hard to rise through the industry ranks, continuing as the chef-garde manger and banquet chef at the Union League Club of Chicago. Ultimately, I landed under the mentorship of esteemed Chef Dominique Tougne at Chicago’s beloved Bistro Margot. There, I served as chef de cuisine and my passion for French technique blossomed.

Far from home, the road wasn’t always easy. But I navigated the sometimes-thorny path to eventually realize my dream of owning my own restaurant, Mexique. The verdict soon came: With a unification of my Mexican heritage and my love of French culinary style, I became the first Mexican-born chef to earn a Michelin star in 2013.

In 2018, I closed Mexique with the desire to reconnect with my roots. With a vow always to return to Chicago, I went back home to Mexico, where I cooked, studied, traveled, and worked on new projects that allowed me to rediscover my origins and deepen the understanding of my heritage.

I found what I was seeking – identifying with the stories of my homeland and appreciating their connection to my identity. In 2019, I made good on my promise to return to Chicago, opening Tzuco – from Huitzuco (derived from the Nahuatle huixochin, meaning “plants with abundant thorns”).

What is the mission behind Tzuco?

CG: Tzuco presents the colorful flavors of Mexico while connecting to the techniques of French cuisine that I have honed over the years.

While I often view the restaurant as an expression of my life experiences, Tzuco is intended to share Mexican cuisine and culture through a range of authentic culinary creations. These include dishes showcasing bright ceviche preparations; the delicate flavors of shrimp, clams, octopus, and salmon; the richness of chicken tinga, pork, house-made tortilla and lentils; the zest of chile and aromatic spices and much more.

Tzuco exudes the austere beauty of my homeland through architecture and conceptual design. The décor, the tables, the leather, even the bathroom sinks and fixtures – most of these items were custom made in Mexico to truly create an environment that reflects a sense of homecoming.

What is the personal takeaway you get from sharing your Mexican cuisine in the American market?

CG: Tzuco is a place that simultaneously weaves in genuine hospitality, atmosphere and unforgettable flavor. It is very rewarding to see our guests’ reactions when they review our menu and realize that something special and different is happening here. Our restaurant has given us an opportunity to present Mexican cuisine in a new and exciting way, and the American market is ready for it. The sense of discovery we see in our guests keeps our whole team so inspired to keep pushing.

And as important as the food, we want our guests to feel comfortable and at home in this space. Tzuco isn’t a stuffy restaurant – it is jovial, full of life and fun, and I really believe this is what people everywhere (not just the American audience) want. There’s nothing better than gathering around the table with loved ones to share a great meal over storytelling, laughter and milestones.

How has the perception of Mexican food changed over the years?

CG: Mexican food continues to evolve so much. It is not just about taco trucks and quesadillas – although I love those just as much as anyone! Several Mexican chefs today – both in the U.S. and Mexico – have crossed new frontiers in presenting our cuisine with newfound innovation. I would like to consider myself as part of that group of chefs. In incorporating French flavors and techniques to our menu, we’re able to demonstrate the richness and history of our heritage, not just on its own but in concert with other ethnic cuisines. In a way, we’re crossing borders together, and in a way that is exciting and approachable.

The boom in culinary enthusiasm worldwide has helped grow audience appetites. The attention that Mexican chefs and restaurants continue to receive from national publications and programs, the Michelin Guide, the James Beard Foundation and others really helps spread awareness and gives both chefs and food lovers the courage to try something new.

We’re all here for it.

Where do you see yourself going into the future?

CG: I will continue to open restaurants nationwide – spanning fine dining to very casual – that express the rich heritage of Mexican culture. There is so much to bring to life from region to region. The whole country is a fountain of inspiration and there’s nothing I love more than serving as its ambassador in my own way.

It’s also critical to me to continue working with our community. Our team is passionate about feeding those less fortunate and I am personally invested in mentoring our youth, especially kids from the Latinx community living in underprivileged areas. Many of these kids need a role model, and they need to see that with determination and hard work, they, too, can create a beautiful life for themselves…even if it feels like they are starting from nowhere. I want to make a difference in those kids’ lives. They are the future of not just our industry, but our world.

What is your favorite dish to cook?

CG: This is like asking me to name my favorite child! While I love cooking everything, my cochinita pibil is among my favorites. It is exactly the recipe my mom taught me growing up. It’s rustic, rich and hearty, and there’s nothing that I can or want to do to elevate that dish. We make our own pineapple vinegar that sets it apart, but this one’s really for my mom. She visited Tzuco from Mexico, where she still lives, before I agreed to put it on the menu. I needed her to try it first. Having her approve of my preparation told me that everything is exactly as it should be with that dish.

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Editor’s pick: While I often view the restaurant as an expression of my life experiences, Tzuco is intended to share Mexican cuisine and culture through a range of authentic culinary creations.

Photo credit: Diego Padilla, Neil Burger

Flavors of Mexico, cooked from the heart- Interview with Carlos Gaytan, chef and creator of Tzuco